London & Italy
Having added five more states to our road trip adventures, I thought it would be fun to kick things up a notch and expand our road trip to Europe. We love exploring the United States, but it’s also fun to explore the larger world. A few years ago we did this when we traversed Canada and now this year, we flew across the pond to visit London and Italy! We were on our own for the first leg of the journey but, alas, daddy joined us during our time in Italy. For those keeping count, daddy last joined us in Hawaii in 2015. Anyone else noticing a pattern? Let’s see what happens once we begin to work our way through the remaining states, such as North Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma and Iowa….
After much debate and research, I decided that a morning flight to London, arriving in the evening, would be best as it would give us a chance to quickly get on London time, which is 6 hours ahead of Chicago. It was a good call, as we were ready to hit the ground running after a good night’s sleep and a relaxed morning.
LONDON
Although the weather in London was spotty — cooler temperatures and periods of clouds and/or rain — there is no denying that it is a fabulous city, steeped in a rich history, great architecture, and plenty of fun! Our London base was South Kensington, as it is a vibrant neighborhood with museums, excellent dining, interesting shops and, with a tube station just across the street from our hotel, easy access to London’s most popular attractions. Speaking of the tube, we loved it with its color-coded routes, clear signage, easy connections, and employees who stand on the platform to assist you with travel. So easy and such a pleasant experience! Here are the highlights.
The Ampersand Hotel
Our hotel experience is worth a mention because, if your’e like me, deciding where to stay, even after you have identified a neighborhood, can be overwhelming. The Ampersand is a beautifully renovated small luxury hotel with an eclectic style that draws inspiration from the nearby landmarks, including the Natural History and V&A Museums. Although a small hotel, it has full-service amenities including a patisserie, underground cocktail bar, library, game room and 24-hour gym on-site. We booked a one bedroom suite (through a promotional offer) that had a small terrace overlooking the city shops and a kitchen area with a sink and refrigerator, which was helpful as we were happy to discover a Whole Foods nearby. European hotel rooms are notoriously small, so the added space, coupled with the well-appointed room, was welcome! The service was also exceptional. I highly recommend this hotel.
Hop On, Hop Off Bus
I am typically not someone who likes these types of tours, but I felt it was the best way for us to get a feel for London and the location of the top sights. The tour delivered as promised, as we hit many sights, including Buckingham Palace (more on that shortly), Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, The London Eye, The Tower of London, London Bridge, Trafalgar Square, and Westminster Abbey — and cruised along the Thames between the Tower of London and Westminster Pier. Following the tour, we were able to return to a few of the key sights for a more in-depth experience. Continue reading for a summary of our time at Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, our spin on the London Eye and tour of Buckingham Palace.
Big Ben
Big Ben is the nickname for the Great Bell inside Elizabeth Tower at the Palace of Westminster. Did you know the name Big Ben actually refers to only the great hour bell, the largest of the clock’s five bells? The other four are used as quarter bells. Another fun fact is that the tower was renamed to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the accession of Queen Elizabeth II; before that, it was known simply as the Clock Tower.
We enjoyed exploring the area around Big Ben and trying to recreate iconic photos that capture the red telephone booth with Big Ben in the background. Were we successful? Let me know in the comments section below.
The Coca-Cola London Eye
The London Eye is often described as a must on any visit to London and while I am happy the girls had an opportunity to experience it, I must say that I was more than a little underwhelmed, especially when you consider the expense. That said, there is no denying it's a modern marvel.
Buckingham Palace
Buckingham Palace is the London residence and administrative headquarters of the reigning monarch of the United Kingdom, currently Queen Elizabeth II. We only expected to take in the exterior, but were excited to learn that in August and September, when the Palace is not being used in its official capacity as the queen is at her summer residence, visitors can take an organized tour. Needless to say, we promptly secured tickets. Although the majority of Buckingham Palace’s 775 rooms remain out of bounds, the tour allows visitors access to all 19 State Rooms — the public rooms where the queen and members of the royal family receive and entertain their guests on state, ceremonial and official occasions. Each year there is a different exhibition and the theme during our visit was "Royal Gifts", which included a variety of presents given to the Queen, including gifts from former US presidents John F. Kennedy and Barack Obama, and South African President Nelson Mandela. Unfortunately, pictures were not allowed inside the Palace, but it was indeed a memorable experience that allowed for great conversations regarding British history in the context of US history and all that we had learned during the first leg of our journey, the Civil Rights tour. All in all, we enjoyed the tour. We also enjoyed sampling the treats at The Garden Cafe — a final stop upon exiting the Palace - which, according to Sydney, had some of the best clotted cream!
Warner Bros. Studio Tour London — The Making of Harry Potter
Of the three Metz Girls, Peytin is a big fan of the Harry Potter books and accompanying films, while Sydney and I are a bit ambivalent (to be charitable). That said, there was no way we could visit London and not take a trip to Leavesden to Warner Bros. Studios, where all eight Harry Potter films were produced, to experience the behind-the-scenes magic that went into transferring JK Rowling’s stories from page to screen. The tour began with a view of the Cupboard Under the Stairs, a short film and a walk on the original stone floor of the Hogwarts Great Hall, after which we were free to take a self-guided tour of the rest of the studio that includes a vast hangar filled with two soundstages, a backlot and so much more. Along the way we viewed the Gryffindor common room, peaked inside Hagrid’s hut, stepped onto authentic sets, caught the Hogwarts Express (figuratively, of course) on Platform 9 3/4 and wandered down Diagon Alley. We also practiced a little magic and stepped inside Harry Potter’s house at 4 Privet Drive. As a non-fan, I will admit that the tour lived up to the hype — "stunning costumes, breathtakingly detailed sets and intricate props" — and I couldn’t help but be impressed with the effort it took to bring the books to life on-screen. And, in any event, Peytin was over the moon, so it made the trek out to Leavesden via taxi, train and shuttle bus worth the effort and expense!
Afternoon Tea
No stay in London is complete without Afternoon Tea and lucky for us, our hotel offered a Science afternoon tea inspired by its South Kensington neighbor, The Science Museum. The girls loved the experience and the menu of sweet and savory dishes.
That concludes the London portion of our journey. We had a great time, but were excited to begin the next and final stage of our road trip with a flight to Rome and a reunion with daddy!
ITALY
Our family reunion took place at Heathrow Airport, as Lloyd had flown overnight so that we could take the short flight to Rome together. Excitement all around!
ROME
Rome is one of the most ancient cities in Europe, with a wonderful mix of archaeological remains, churches, art, piazzas, food and a vibrant street life, although crowded might be a better term to describe Roman streets during the height of summer! That said, through a mix of organized tours and free time to explore on our own, we managed to craft an itinerary that permitted us to somewhat avoid the crowds and beat the heat. With respect to the heat, we arrived into Italy following a long and oppressive heat wave with temperatures well above 100 degrees, so we were "happy" with temperatures in the high-80’s to low-90’s.
Gelato
A good place to start in describing our time in Rome and our prescription for a fun way to beat the heat would be our pick for the best gelato. After trying every shop in Rome — a slight exaggeration, but we did give it a real try — I would like to give a shout-out to our favorite gelateria, Come il Latte ("like milk") on Via Silvio Spaventa. With its really creamy texture and high-quality, fresh ingredients, this place was a real standout!
Ancient Rome Tour
The first item on our "must see" list was a tour of Ancient Rome — the Colosseum, Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum. We opted to see these sights as part of a tour, one of the advantages being that tour operators are able offer skip the line access (especially helpful at the Colosseum with its incredibly long lines). There are endless tour company options, but thanks to a recommendation from my friend Tina, we booked a private tour with Francesca who is an archaeologist and had the added benefit of being great with kids. Our tour started with a walk through the interior of the Colosseum, followed by a walk to Palatine Hill and then down to "Via Sacra" or "Sacred Way", which was the main artery through the Roman Forum. Here are the highlights, sprinkled with a little history.
The Colosseum
The Colosseum is a massive stone amphitheater that was used to host spectacular entertainment events, such as gladiator fights, wild animal hunts and public executions. After four centuries of active use and the fall of the Roman Empire, the Colosseum was abandoned. Over time, a combination of neglect, weather, natural disasters and plunder has destroyed nearly two-thirds of the original Colosseum. However, today it is one of the most-visited ancient ruins in the world — with close to 7 million visitors per year -- and second only to Vatican City as the most visited spot in Italy. We loved exploring the first and second tiers of the Colosseum, especially since Francesca did a great job avoiding the crowds and engaging the girls by asking them questions and using scavenger hunts to keep their interest. It made all the difference as we were also able to ask lots of questions and move at our own pace. Here are just a few of the fun facts we learned about the Colosseum.
The building had 80 entrances and could seat approximately 50,000 spectators.
The very first games at the Colosseum, held in 80AD by Emperor Titus, lasted for 100 days straight.
Below the Colosseum was a labyrinth series of arches, tunnels and passageways where the animals and gladiators were kept. There were also 36 trap doors for special effects.
The Catholic Church used the abandoned Colosseum as a quarry, taking stone to build the Cathedral of St. Peter and Palazzo Venezia.
To protect spectators from the blistering sun and heat, the Colosseum was outfitted with a velarium — a retractable awning that provided shade. Sounds like a precursor to the retractable roofs found at sports stadiums today!
Palatine Hill
The next stop on our tour was Palatine Hill. Roman myth holds that Romulus established Rome on Palatine Hill after he’d killed his twin Remus in a fit of anger. In Ancient Rome, its location and magnificent views made Palatine Hill "the place to live" and, therefore, was the home of aristocrats and emperors (including Augustus, Caligula, Nero, Cicero and Marc Antony) who lived in imperial palaces and luxurious homes. After Rome’s decline, Palatine Hill became neglected and fell into ruin. Today, the Palatine is an extensive archaeological site, with majestic ruins and memorable views over the Roman Forum below. As we walked around listening to the details of Rome’s most exclusive neighborhood it was easy to imagine how luxurious it must have been during ancient times.
View of the Roman Forum from Palatine Hill
Roman Forum
Our last stop was the Roman Forum. The Roman Forum began as a marketplace — with stalls, shops and taverns throughout — but became the commercial, political, and religious center of all Rome. It was where the population gathered to hear orations, take part in processions, watch trials, and vote in elections. Hundreds of years of plunder following the fall of the Roman Empire reduced the Roman Forum to its current ruined state. Today, the archaeological site shows incredible ruins — the remains of many temples, arches, basilicas and vibrant public spaces — and evidence of Rome’s life. Walking along the Via Sacra and imagining the bustling scene from centuries ago and seeing many of the sites we had read about in textbooks and travel literature — from the final resting place of Julius Caesar to the incredible arch of Constantine — was a great way to end our day.
An Ancient Rome tour is a must when visiting Rome and a private tour guide (less expensive than any of the larger group tours I researched) is an added bonus, as it permits maximum flexibility and personalized attention (which is helpful when traveling with kids). A special thanks to Francesca, who was fabulous!
Other Sites
We spent the rest of our time in Rome exploring many sites on our own, a highlight of which was having the girls navigate for us using good old-fashioned paper street maps. We did get turned around a few times, but it’s a useful skill in this world in which people have become overly dependent on technology!
The Pantheon
The Pantheon — a former Roman temple, now a church — is the best-preserved ancient building in Rome. With its precisely calibrated symmetry and a massive oculus in the middle of its soaring ceiling — still the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome ever built — and inlaid marble floors, It has been called the world’s only architecturally perfect building. In addition to being an active church, it is the resting place of two Italian kings and other prominent figures, including the artist Raphael. Standing in the center of the Pantheon and looking up at the oculus, which is open to the sky, letting sunlight filter in, it is easy to see what make this structure so special.
Piazza Navona
While wandering the streets of Rome, we made our way over to Piazza Navona, which is a popular plaza lined with restaurants, gelaterias, and souvenir shops, with Fountain of the Four Rivers as it centerpiece. We spent time in the plaza relaxing by the fountain and enjoying the activity all around us.
Villa Borghese Gardens
Villa Borghese Gardens are Rome’s version of Central Park with bust-lined paths, statues, fountains, an artificial lake, carousel, zoo, theater and museums, the most famous of which is Galleria Borghese. We visited the gardens in the late-afternoon in an attempt to avoid the crowds (we were successful)! After walking around the gardens for a bit, we decided to rent an electric bike. The electric power kicks in as you begin to pedal, so it wasn’t difficult to maneuver as a family of four. That said, getting started took a little effort and stopping involved some serious foot work, but we survived unscathed and didn’t run into (or over) a single tourist! We were able to cover quite a bit of ground on the electric bike, including a stop at Pincio Terrace, an overlook with sweeping views of Rome. All in all, it was a nice way to spend an afternoon.
Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps & Via dei Condotti
The last stops on our trip to Rome were the Spanish Steps (we enjoyed relaxing and people watching), Via de Condotti (we perused some of the fanciest boutiques in Italy), and Trevi Fountain (the only site where we felt completely overwhelmed by the crowds). Seriously, I have never seen a more crowded tourist attraction, but we were happy to have had a chance to view the fountain and the surrounding area.
Trastevere
We took a trip across the river one evening to Trastevere, a hip neighborhood with cobblestoned streets, to enjoy dinner at Antica Pesa. With delicious food, a great wine list and a cool vibe, it is one of our favorite restaurants in Rome.
Unfortunately, we did not visit Rome’s most visited site — Vatican City — as we had been told that the crowds, even with a private tour and skip the line access, were overwhelming. Oh well, I guess it gives us an excuse to return to Rome!
FLORENCE
After a wonderful time in Rome, we traveled to Florence via Italo Treno, Italy’s first high-speed private rail service. Nicknamed the "Ferrari" train, as the head of Ferrari is also the head of Italo Treno, it lives up to its name — lightning speed (only 1.5 hours) and a beautiful train with a dark-red color scheme, streamlined shape and luxury leather seats. We traveled in the Club Executive class with "Salotto" tickets, a private suite with a maximum of four passengers. It was indeed a great experience, but the best part is that it was less expensive than a lesser class of service, as the pricing is such that you book four seats for the price of three. I highly recommend Italo Treno!
As the city that gave birth to the Renaissance, Florence is a place to experience world-class art, endless fashion, and gourmet Tuscan cuisine. Since we were traveling as a family, we decided that we would (reluctantly) skip the fashion and instead focus on art, cuisine and key points of interest. The good news is that Florence is a walkable city and so we were able to explore on foot, which was a great way to really experience all that the city has to offer. Here are the highlights.
Uffizi Gallery & Accademia Gallery
No visit to Florence would be complete without a visit to two premier museums, especially Uffizi Gallery, often described as one of the most famous museums in the world. Unfortunately, the long lines at the museums' entrance are almost as famous as its masterpieces and so it is critical that you book tickets in advance to skip the lines at the entrance. When booking, you will have to select a date and time, keeping in mind that Uffizi generally only allows entrance for up to 20 minutes after your reserved starting time, so it’s important to select a realistic time.
Uffizi Gallery
Home to the world’s greatest collection of Italian Renaissance art, the Uffizi is also one of the world’s oldest museums. The collection, bequeathed to Florence by the Medici family in 1743 on condition that it never leave Florence, contains some of Italy’s best-known paintings, including Sandro Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and Leonardo da Vinci’s Annunciation.
Accademia Gallery
While the Accademia Gallery offers visitors works by great Italian artists, it is best known as the home of Michelangelo’s sculpture David. One of history’s most famous masterpieces, 26-year-old Michelangelo created David — the Biblical hero about to do battle with Goliath — from a piece of marble that had been twice discarded by two other sculptors. At almost 17 feet tall and with lifelike anatomy and incredible detail, the statue is truly a sight to behold.
We thoroughly enjoyed our time at both museums. In fact, the statue of David left such an impression on Sydney that it was the focal point of a lengthy research paper in her history class this year. I love it when our experiences provide context to and/or supplement learning!
Boboli Gardens
Since the Ponte Vecchio, an arch bridge over the Arno River, was right on our hotel’s doorstep we took a leisurely stroll across the bridge en route to Boboli Gardens. Along the way, we explored the jumble of jeweler’s shops along the bridge and admired the view. Boboli Gardens is located directly behind Pitti Palace, the former home of three dynasties, including the Medici family, and is adorned with grottos, statues, fountains, hedges in geometric patterns, rows of cypress and more. The gardens are worth a visit, and if you are a true museum fan, you should also visit Pitti Palace, which houses several museums, including the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, displaying a vast collection of Medici household treasures, and the Museum of Costume and Fashion, a showcase of the fashions of the past 300 years. We, however, decided to skip Pitti Palace as we had spent quite a bit of time in Uffizi and Accademia galleries. In other words, we are smart enough to know how to strike a balance between sightseeing, history and leisure time when traveling with our girls!
Piazzale Michelangelo
Following our tour of Boboli Gardens and a nice lunch, we made our way to Piazzale Michelangelo, a lookout with a breathtaking panoramic view of Florence. Not much more to add than the simple fact that, in this instance, a picture is worth a thousand words….
Portrait Firenze
The final highlight of our time in Florence was our stay at Portrait Firenze hotel. Located on the north bank of the Arno River and overlooking the Ponte Vecchio, the Portrait Firenze is a luxury hotel owned by the Ferragamo family. In a word, it is an amazing all-suite hotel with impeccable furnishings, an excellent staff and a great restaurant. As an added bonus, the Portrait Firenze is part of the American Express Fine Hotels and Resorts program, which includes a room upgrade upon arrival, if available. As luck would have it, we were upgraded to a one bedroom river view suite complete with a palatial living and dining area, two bathrooms, a cleverly concealed but fully equipped kitchenette and bar, and a fireplace. We absolutely loved our stay and the location cannot be beat!
PISA
The girls really wanted to visit the Tower, but we didn’t feel it warranted more than a few hours, so we hired a driver to take us to Pisa en route to our next and final stop, Cinque Terre. Although the train was certainly an option, I didn’t want to deal with storing our luggage at the train station in Pisa and a change of trains en route to Cinque Terre, so a driver was the best decision for our family of four, thereby eliminating any worry about train times, luggage storage or coordinating with our hotel in Cinque Terre to make sure the luggage shuttle would be available (since no cars are permitted in Manarola, there is a luggage shuttle that meets guests at the train station or parking area).
Leaning Tower of Pisa
The Leaning Tower of Pisa is a freestanding marble bell tower whose tilt began during construction, caused by an inadequate foundation on ground too soft on one side to properly support the structure’s weight. Access to the Leaning Tower is limited to 45 people at a time in 30 minute increments and so we wisely purchased our tickets in advance as it is a very popular tourist attraction, the day of our visit being no exception. It is a steep, but manageable, climb up to the top via a 297-step spiral staircase that is occasionally slippery, as the steps have been worn smooth through years of use. Once at the top we were rewarded with beautiful views and a peaceful setting far from the crowds below.
After making our way out of the tower, we explored the grounds and took a peak inside the Baptistery, devoted to St. John the Baptist. We purposely avoided all of the tourist shops, as well as the Cathedral, as the line was too long. That said, we were pleased with our time in Pisa and glad we were able to fulfill the girls’ request to see the Leaning Tower. And so, with that box checked, we made our way back to our driver so that we could continue the journey to our next and final stop, Cinque Terre!
CINQUE TERRE
Cinque Terre (literally, "five lands") comprises five villages — Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso — clinging to the cliffs of the Ligurian coast, just above Tuscany. The coastline, the five villages, and the surrounding hillsides are part of the Cinque Terre National Park, as well as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Cinque Terre is characterized by terraced vineyards, craggy cliffs, colorful houses that appear to rise from the Mediterranean Sea, and panoramic footpaths. Our goal was to see all five villages and since cars are impractical due to the narrow and winding mountain road that connects the five villages and, in any event, are banned from village centers, we picked Manarola as our base and made a series of day trips by train, boat and hiking trails.
By Train | A fast and convenient option, the local train runs every 15 minutes in both directions through a series of tunnels dug into the mountains. The towns are very close together, so the train ride from Riomaggiore to Monterosso (the first and last villages along the coast of Cinque Terre), making all local stops at each of the villages, only takes about 20 minutes. We took the train several times, including to Riomaggiore and Vernazza.
By Boat | Cinque Terre has a local ferry that runs between the villages, which is the best way to see the varied landscape of each village. We took a ferry to Monterosso and the views from the water were magnificent!
On Foot | Trails connect each of the five villages of Cinque Terre. The more than 70 miles of hiking trails are managed by the national park and are one of Cinque Terre’s main attractions. Unfortunately, due to a devastating landslide in 2012, some of the hiking trails are closed and this fact, coupled with the heat, led us to take shorter hikes within some of the villages (rather than between the villages) to experience the countryside and capture breathtaking views and photos.
Manarola
After much research, I selected Manarola as our home base. Surrounded by steep terraced vineyards, Manarola is the center of wine and oil production in the region. The one road tumbles down from the Church of San Lorenzo high above the village to the swimming cove and bustling harbor below. There is no beach in Manarola, but people sunbathe on the rocks surrounding the marina and cliff dive from the outcroppings in the water. It was fun to watch the cliff divers, but none of us dared try. Our unique hotel, La Torretta Lodge, was in a 17th-century tower that sits high on the hill above the village, so we were afforded amazing views of the terraced vineyards, colorful village homes, and the Mediterranean Sea. Those amazing views came at a price at the end of each day — a steep climb — but we couldn’t have been happier with our location and hotel room with its sleek decor, two bedrooms, private balcony and sea and garden views.
A highlight of our stay in Manarola was a hike up to Punta Bonfiglio, a rocky promontory on the path out of town towards Corniglia. Here I was able to capture postcard pictures of the town and watch the sunset. Stunning!
Monterosso
The flattest of the five villages, Monterosso is the only town that feels like a resort area, complete with a beach, the most wine shops, restaurants and hotels, and a thriving nightlife. It is made up of an old town area and a more modern resort area with a pedestrian tunnel that links the two. We took a ferry to Monterosso, which was a great way to get a different perspective on the villages. Once we arrived into town it was clear that the girls wanted a much needed break from all of the hiking, climbing and sightseeing and so we rented a chair and umbrella on the beach, allowing the girls to relax and swim and soak up some sun. While Lloyd watched the girls, I spent the time exploring the village, hiking and snapping pictures. We reunited over lunch before continuing on to Vernazza via train.
Vernazza
Vernazza has a natural pier with an amphitheater shape, lending itself to a lively waterfront with restaurants and bars. We visited Vernazza in the late afternoon and had a lovely time exploring the streets and waterfront area, as well as hiking (to capture the below iconic picture).
Riomaggiore
Cinque Terre’s largest and easternmost village and where the headquarters of the Cinque National Park are located, Riomaggiore is famous for its pastel buildings that march down a steep ravine to a tiny harbor. We took the train to this village and had a great time exploring the area and trying to capture the iconic postcard shot seen in many travel magazines and books. It took some time, but thanks to the patience of Lloyd and the girls, I was able to capture some great photos.
Corniglia
Corniglia is the smallest of the villages, and is the only town not directly on the water. High up on a cliff, you can reach Corniglia in one of two ways — by hiking or train. Hiking from Manarola was not an option, as this is one of the trails closed due to the landslide. And while the train was indeed an option, we were none too eager to traverse a 365-step brick stairway from the train station to the town. So, Corniglia will have to wait until our next visit.
That said, it’s hard to be disappointed given that we were able to visit four of the five villages, eating tasty food, taking lots of pictures and creating wonderful memories along the way.
CLOSING THOUGHTS
After three weeks, five states, two European countries, and five flights, we were ready to take our sixth and final flight from Milan to New York. As luck would have it, I managed to snag a great deal on business class tickets on Emirates Airlines using American Express points (to give you an idea, our tickets required fewer points or miles than an economy ticket on any other airline). If you ever have the pleasure of flying Emirates’ A380, you will not be disappointed — from direct boarding from the lounge, to the onboard bar, flat-bed seats, robust entertainment system, Bulgari amenity kits, tasty food, and top-notch service, it was a phenomenal experience! As an added perk, we were also offered complimentary pick-up chauffeur service from any address within Milan, but since we were arriving from Cinque Terre we weren’t able to take advantage of this offer. Hopefully, next time, as we would all love to visit northern Italy in the near future!
Okay, that's all for The Metz Girls Road Trip 2017. Have a happy and safe rest of summer, and hope to see you soon.